A South African Experience Local Style!


This local South African experience began with an email from my family member to her friend in SA, Nadia! From that point on every one of my experiences I seemed destined for. From cancelling plans to depart SA early to crazy bus rides to Nelspruit…everything happened for a reason. I began my journey in Pretoria; with Nadia as my “tour guide, driver and hostess” I enjoyed Pretoria like a local! We started our first adventure in Johannesburg at Constitution Hill. Two prisons here (male and female) held great political activists such as Winnie Mandela and Mohandas Gandhi. We saw their “living” environments and listened as the guide told us their stories of their struggle for freedom. It’s unbelievable to know how horribly they were treated; abused and humiliated. By the end of our two hour tour we were emotionally exhausted. Afterwards Nadia and I received respite from her cousin Reyhana. Reyhana made Nadia and myself a delicious Indian meal that I gobbled up in seconds! We then went out to Fordsburg market or as I like to call it very little India. It’s exactly the same, the smell of coriander, garam masala, deep fried samosas, fresh veggies and of course the infamous body odor…I loved it!! Bootleg CDs and DVDs everywhere, bargaining down to one-tenth of the original price, waiting patiently as some guy goes somewhere to dig out this movie you’ve been searching months and months for, it was FANTASTIC! A wonderful beginning to my journey! Thank you Reyhana for your hospitality!

Nelspruit and Blyde River Canyon
Bussing from Pretoria to Nelspruit I met Mbongwa, a very interesting gentleman to converse with regarding South Africa’s present political situation. (We met before the elections took place.) Out of the kindness of his heart he and his mom and aunty drove me from the bus station to my backpacker’s lodge. Unbelievable generosity! Another reason I believe in karma. At my lodge I met an American couple who were absolutely lovely to talk with. The three of us went on the Blyde River Canyon tour and witnessed the clouds close and open up over the world’s largest green canyon. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, the air so fresh and crisp and the tranquility felt while looking at The Three Rondavels...(sigh)! Checking out many amazing views on the way such as Lisbon Falls, Wonderview and the Pinnacle we eventually came to Bourke’s Luck Potholes. Now many of my fellow Pennsylvanian’s are all too familiar with potholes, but these were like none you’ve ever seen and frankly none that you’d ever become infuriated about. I’m talking about potholes created by water and wind erosion that create the most interesting shapes and curves. Most potholes filled with swirling water and others being flushed by a waterfall! Incredibly beautiful! One of my most favorite places on this trip!


Nelspruit to Jo’burg
My good fortune reappears as I am offered a lift by an Israeli couple back to Johannesburg. Katy a lovely woman pregnant with her second baby wanted to come to explore South Africa with her funny husband, Shay! The three of us had a great time at the casino in Nelspruit…well I should say they had a great time as they came back with more money than was spent and myself on the other hand did not…guess my good fortune wasn’t making an appearance that night. We made it safely back to Jo’burg and I said goodbye as they headed back to Israel, but not without an invite first to visit them!


Durban
I arrived to Durban on Good Friday, where my friend Nadia came to fetch me from the bus station. She unfortunately had to be in Durban because her father fell ill earlier in the week. No worries though he is feeling much better now. Despite having to care for her father, Nadia insisted that I stay at his house as long as I needed to while exploring Durban. While in Durban, which by the way has the largest Indian population in South Africa, Nadia and I visited the botanic gardens and the KZN Society for the Arts and best of all the local Essenwood market! This little market comes alive every Saturday with crafts, food, music and children playing. I bought a few souvenirs for friends and a dress for myself!

My next Durban experience wasn’t so pleasant…The Beach! No I’m not talking about the creepy movie with Leo Dicaprio, but Durban’s safe-if-you-are-in-a-group-beach. As I walked along the beachfront looking for a place to sunbathe (don’t laugh) I spot a place next a white female. I kindly ask her if it’s okay to plop myself next to her and she says no problem. We begin chatting and I find out she’s an American student studying in Durban. After about an hour of reading on the beach she departs and I’m left to fend for myself. Now the beach wasn’t by any means empty…it was Easter weekend and everyone was there to relax and enjoy. Well, unfortunately I never felt completely comfortable because of the overhead announcements: “ATTENTION, ATTENTION TO ALL PUBLIC! PLEASE TAKE CARE OF YOUR BELONGINGS! THERE ARE PEOPLE ON THE BEACH NOT HERE TO ENJOY, BUT TO STEAL YOUR BAGS! TAKE CARE OF YOUR BAGS THERE ARE THIEVES ON THE BEACH!” Relaxation not in sight for miles, so I finished my book and left…but hey you should see my tan it’s great!

After dealing with Durban’s poor transportation system I caved and rented a car. So off to see The Valley of 1000 Hills, scuba-diving in the Aliwal Shoal along the South Coast to see two sea turtles, two rays, two eels and some of the craziest looking fish, then to meet a friend of Nadia’s, Leanne and her family. Leanne and her family graciously invited me to attend a rugby match with them and offered me a place to bunk for the night! Good fortune #???? Leanne is a kind and generous and loving individual. Thanks for schooling me on the rules of rugby! Oh and my most favorite …the Flasher Girls!! I look forward to cheering on the Sharks!!

After saying farewell to Leanne I was off to the Gandhi Salt March…my most humbling experience in Africa by any measure! The crowd was ridiculous, people of all ages, races and religions coming together in celebration of Mahatma Gandhi’s struggle for freedom! The young and the elderly dressed in dhotis, carrying walking sticks and wearing sandals just like Gandhiji with the goal of walking 22km! I was overwhelmed with emotion and quickly wiped away my tears as I walked around his home and viewed his pictures and read on his great accomplishments. A true awakening for me. After the welcome speech was made the marchers hit the pavement, some carrying the flag of India and all wearing the Gandhi Salt March 2009 t-shirt. We were a swarm of white t-shirts crowding sidewalks and roadways while motorists honked in support and minibus taxi drivers offered to give us a lift to the end point. We passed by some of the poorest sections of Durban…talk about being humbled…unbelievable. At the end, a few speeches were made and Ela Gandhi closed the ceremony by thanking everyone who participated in the march and honored her grandfather, as she wiped tears from her eyes. For me this was a privilege and an honor to be a part of and I look forward to continuing to educate others on the importance of unity and peace through non-violence.

Narissa & Family…my next wonderful Durban experience!! So Narissa is a friend of Nadia’s who I had the lucky fortune to meet in Pretoria one evening for dinner. We hit it off…mostly because we are both Tauruses! She welcomed me into her home and introduced me to her mother, husband, sister, brother-in-law and her two nephews, as well as her daughter via the phone and oh how could I forget about Serj and Garfield, her cats! Such wonderful people who gave me shelter, food and most of all a family away from family! I learned a lot from Narissa as well, I learned about South Africa’s political history and how she worked elbow to elbow with Nelson Mandela. Narissa turned a beautiful 50 this year and accomplished one of her greatest achievements…earning her PhD…without compromise! She’s been an inspiration to her daughter and is an inspiration to me. The most profound comment she made was, “Most people say I don’t want to live beyond the age of 70, but I say I want to live beyond 70 because 70 years isn’t long enough to achieve everything in life I want to achieve!” Since she’s said that to me I now want to live as long as I can to achieve as much as I can. Meeting Narissa and her family I learned that one can really have it all family, career and most importantly happiness!

My last paragraph is for Nadia. A woman without whom I wouldn’t have been able to see and do everything that I’ve done in the last month. A woman who's shaken hands with Arch Bishop Desmond Tutu and who keeps the autograph of the Dalai Lama. A woman who has been inspired by her father to read and by herself to pursue her goals and I figure by her mother to be so caring and giving. Her generosity is kindest of all. Thank you Nadia for opening up your home, your family’s home and your heart to me! Your kindness is appreciated beyond any simple Thank you!

3 comments:

Unknown said...

Oh my ... this is one of your most best posts, Manali! Your writing is so good. I feel like I've walked with you in very little India! And could see through your eyes some of the other sights!

I googled The Three Rondavels ... wowzer!

Thank you for taking us all on your African Adventure!

travelj said...

Awesome!!!! There is nothing better than getting a local "show-around" by a friend or a friend of a friend. It sounds like you are having the time of your life! SO THRILLED for you!!! Where to next chief? How much longer????

Anonymous said...

I miss You!! But I'm so happy for you that you are having these experiences! You should definently keep these writings as Memroirs! So what new adventures do you have in store for us next? Please be home by Dec 5th??!!!!

Love You, Be Safe,
Nese