Greetings my friends!! It's been quite a while since I blogged. Friends were encouraging me to start up again so here I am...blogging from Dubai, United Arab Emirates.
So why am I here? I have an auntie, uncle and two cousins that live here. Actually one cousin is studying in London, but was here for his mom and dad's 25th wedding anniversary...and that's what brought all of us together!
Celebrations included a desert safari ride and party filled with my auntie and uncle renewing their vows, my uncle riding in on a camel (FYI: not traditional, an elephant was not available for the desert ;)), lots of singing and dancing, a belly dancer performance and live professional singers! We ate and only I, partook in a little hookah time. My auntie and uncle looked stunning! The safari ride was in a land cruiser and up and down the sand dunes we went, yelping and hollering for more!! I forgot how fun a cultural gathering can be. It was great to see my mom and my aunties (her sisters) so happy to share this time together!
The next day's function was high class luncheon...just kidding! Those who got that, give yourselves a pat on the back! The next of the 25th wedding anniversary festivities was a Bollywood-style gala! My auntie and uncle dressed as their favorite movie actors! Others came dressed up as well. They had dozens of photographers and cameramen to capture the "star-studded" event. It actually looked as if they were being swarmed by the paparazzi!!! The rolled up in a rolls royce! Had a red carpet entry too! Very Hollywood/Bollywood! It was fun! Their elder son put on a dance performance with his friends and their younger son made a very endearing speech. We ate and danced. I unfortunately think I had an allergic reaction to dragon fruit! My tongue felt like it was swelling up. Fortunately it did not close off my airway and I was fine. But I ended up having a headache and left the party early. Overall though I had a great time!
The last day of festivities included a Pooja. And a South Indian style lunch party afterward. There was a Kathakali performance and a live band! (Another day of eating and dancing!) This was to bless their new home.
During the in between events times, my auntie and uncle gave all of us (100-150) even more great times. They scheduled a bus to take us around Dubai. We went to the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world...~2700ft!!! Holy moly!! The views were spectacular!! We also had photo opportunities on the beach with the Burj Al Arab (one of the 15 most expensive hotels in the world) in the background. We saw the sheikh's home from a distance and there were peacocks walking around the courtyard. (Yes I'm thinking what world did I enter here???) Lastly a night cruise was arranged for us. Taking us right through the heart of Dubai on the Dubai Creek. The boat was beautiful and again another night of dancing and eating! The views of the night skyline were lit by towering buildings and the marina smelled of good eats and apple scented sheesha! The twisted
building or properly known as the Cayan Tower was my favorite building!
I've been to Dubai twice before, although the second time was a brief stopover. This time I did not spend much time in the gold souq (market), but if you want gold, this is the place to get it! It's displayed to adults like multicolored candies are to children in sweet shoppes! It sparkles in the day and night and many people come out with their neck, ear lobes, fingers and wrists glittering in that same way! I'm however perfectly content with my $3.00 earrings from H&M ;)
My parents and I were able to separate from the festivities a bit and take our own tour. Well, we took my auntie & uncle visiting from India with us too. We drove to Abu Dhabi to see the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Driving here is just the same as driving in the US except the is an aggression factor. People here will ride your tail to within inches until you move over. I was stressed out by the end of the journey secondary to the aggressive drivers, the six lanes, a GPS that took me in circles and traffic! Yikes! I refused to drive the car the next day and so it was returned! Hahaha! The next day I took in some Manali time and ran, yoga'd and saw Robocop! Excellent movie!!
Besides gold, silver and diamonds...you can also get some great knockoffs...Marty if you're reading this I no speak English! ;) most of you know brands aren't my thing unless it's mountain hardwear or REI. Everywhere I go people ask if I want knock-offs..." Madame, we have bags watches, prada, Gucci, etc." Aye-yai-yai!! Give me a break people!! So I hideout in the movie theater or at home reading about all the snow the east coast is getting, the drought in California :( and the Sochi Olympics.
Dubai has been fun because of my family! Next adventure...India! Come along with me!
Sorry I can't upload photos right now but will do as soon as I can.
Doubtful Sound and Bottlenose Dolphins!!!!
Besides catching up with my dear friend Kelly...this was the HIGHLIGHT of my NZ adventure!!!
Glaciers created this natural spectacle of beauty! This place is one reason why I LOVE nature!!
The Doubtful Sound is in a quite remote location. To get there: First by boat for 45-minutes across Lake Manapouri to the Power Station. Then picked up from there by coach for a 30-minute ride along a the 2 million dollar Wilmot Pass to arrive at the dock of the Doubtful Sound!
This overnight excursion is one that should NOT be missed on a trip to New Zealand! And the company Real Journey's is FANTASTIC!! The crew works so hard to deliver a memorable journey! The meals were outstanding...one of the passengers said, "I can't cook this well in my own kitchen, let alone on a boat!"
First activity: kayaking on the Doubtful Sound! Oh!! That was immensely liberating!! To see how small I was against the cliff faces that surrounded me is an experience that will I NEVER forget. I kayaked along the Fiordlands walls and in the spray of the waterfalls!
Second activity: swimming in the Doubtful Sound!! So while kayaking I put my hand in the water and it felt warm, so I thought great it's not going to be be too cold after all. I was too excited to go in more than ever!! So I took a leap off the stern of the boat and hit the water...the ice cold water!!!! BRRRRRRR!!! is an understatement. I really think my heart stopped and my body turned blue. So I flailed my arms around a bit in the water and called it a swim! It was FANTASTIC!! And I'd do it all over again!!! Maybe next time with a wet-suit ;)
Aboard the boat I had the pleasure of meeting three wonderful people!! Karen, Christine and Collin are from Australia. They befriended me while on the cruise and that just made the whole experience so much more enjoyable. They were so kind to me and took my photo when I requested without hesitation. We shared stories, food and drinks! Karen I'm still working off all that dessert! Cheers to my new friends! I will be over for a visit!!
The animal highlight of this cruise were dolphins...bottlenose dolphis and we saw them FOUR times!!! The crew said that was unusual to see them so many times. Usually they see them once! These characters were just as exciting as the Hector's Dolphins in Akaroa. It seems as if they even put on a little dance show for us! FANTASTIC!!!
So besides the activities, the food, the friends and the dolphins; the scenery was just amazing!! Extremely beautiful waterfalls and shear cliff faces!! We had the best weather!! A little overcast at times, rain at times and the sunshine at times!! All the weather changes made you see the Sound in many different lights.
The best part: The skipper stops in the middle of the sound on a really calm part and cuts the engine. He asks everyone to go outside and just be silent and enjoy the sounds of The Doubtful Sound. That was just AMAZING!! Very peaceful and calming...(sigh).
The Milford Sound and The Milford Road
A Hike in Arrowtown!
I hiked the Sawpit Gully Trail in Arrowtown. Initially a pretty tough hike but it was worth the view and the amazing landscape! I felt like I was on the set of Lord of the Rings...minus Frodo and the gang ;) But truly a spectacular landscape! Locals and tourists love this trail because of it's variety of terrain, views and rolling hills!
Arthur's Pass National Park
Even on a foggy overcast day this park is spectacular!! Driving up to and through the pass was thrilling!! Windy roads and scenic overlooks are a bad combination, but no worries, we arrived safely. A hike to Devils Punchbowl Waterfall was an easy 30-minute trek with a stunning reward at the end!! Once I arrived to the platform to see this gorgeous and powerful waterfall rushing down I embraced the spray! It was soft and cool and quite refreshing! This place I will definitely come back to for a more rigorous hike!
Hector's Dolphis and a Blue Penguin
Katy, Ryan and I drove to Akaroa for a harbour cruise and we saw Hector's dolphins, which can only be seen in New Zealand! Goodness these creatures are just soooo beautiful and graceful! They look like they are literally flying through the water! 
My favorite part of this cruise was laying eyes on the fairy penguin or more affectionately, little blue penguin. Soooo tiny and sooo cute! When I saw this little guy I immediately thought of my niece Esha, sooo tiny and sooo cute! These penguins are the smallest of the all the penguins and the fairy penguins are only found in the southern hemisphere. They only grow to about 16-17" tall. We were very fortunate to see one!
Definitely a must do if you decide to travel to New Zealand!
My favorite part of this cruise was laying eyes on the fairy penguin or more affectionately, little blue penguin. Soooo tiny and sooo cute! When I saw this little guy I immediately thought of my niece Esha, sooo tiny and sooo cute! These penguins are the smallest of the all the penguins and the fairy penguins are only found in the southern hemisphere. They only grow to about 16-17" tall. We were very fortunate to see one!
Definitely a must do if you decide to travel to New Zealand!
The South Island Adventure Begins...
After a great week on the North Island with Kelly, I'm on my own on the South Island...well kinda...
I met two Americans on the flight from MEL to CHC and have been their best buddy since ;) Upon my return to Christchurch, Katy, Ryan and I hired a car for two days and used it to travel to Akaroa, Lyttleton and Arthur's Pass National Park.
Tour de Auckland!
After recovering from a fantastic New Year's Eve celebration, our first stop...Mt Eden, Auckland's highest natural point, for a birds-eye view of Auckland. I saw the Sky Tower, One Tree Hill (no not the television show) and Rangitoto. Look Mom!!! I'm on top of a volcano!!!From Mt. Eden we moved on to the Sky Tower for another birds-eye view, but from 328-meters in the sky! Views of TVNZ, the Harbour Bridge, the marina, Rangitoto and Eden Park were all stunning!
My last and most favourite part of touring Auckland...the Auckland Harbour Cruise! As we left the harbour, I saw this really impressive building and was waiting for the guide to tell me...then I realized it was a hotel?? Really?? But really!! The Hilton is quite grand and with it's two wings perfectly set aside the Sky Tower, makes for a wonderful harbour picture. We cruised along harbour and saw other sights, such as the shipping cranes, the Harbour Bridge (actually cruised right under it), naval ships, the Maritime Museum, Devonport, Mt Victoria, North Head and of course my favourite "The Big Baby", Rangitoto!! Rangitoto is the youngest of the islands in the Hauraki Gulf, popping up about 700 years ago. The island's ground was like black rock/slate...you'll have to look at the photos to see what I'm trying to describe.
Last sight but not least...Devonport/Mt Victoria. Just across the harbour and another view, but from a different perspective. The climb up was definitely worth the spectacular view and the silly selfies of Kelly and I!
To end this spectacular day, Kelly treated me to a true Kiwi style dinner...Fish&Chips! With a bottle of L&P and Jelly-tip ice cream!!
A Kiwi BBQ and NYE in Auckland!!
My dear friend Kelly was so gracious to invite me to her parents home to meet her lovely family. Her mom, dad, brother and two beautiful pups were a pleasure to meet! Her father grilled lamb and chicken and her mom made salad, kumra (like a sweet potato, but not as sweet) and a beautiful yummy dessert!
The next morning I woke to breakfast from the BBQ, my very first! Just before we took off for Auckland we took a stroll along Papamoa Beach and it was a beautiful day with a ton of jellyfish on the beach! Yikes!
On our way to Auckland a quick stop in front of the giant L&P softdrink bottle was a cheesey must on my trip to NZ!!
NYE...well what can I say?? I'm fortunate to have been one of the first people in the world to ring in 2011!! We went out for dinner at dine by Peter Gordon! Whoa! What a feast!! I can't recall how many courses we had but each one was scrumptious!!! Dinner was followed by staring in awe at the fireworks that were shot off of the Sky Tower!! Yeahhhhhh!!!! Happy 2011!!! What a way to start my new year!! Thanks to you Kelly for a wonderful evening!! (Sorry everyone no photos from our night out ;))
Learning About Kiwis and Sheep!
Rainbow Springs Wildlife Park is where I met my first Kiwi...the actual bird, that is. So cute, but so endangered. Here at this park they are rescuing and breeding the Kiwi. They are really interesting little creatures. Two facts of many: 1. They have wings but cannot fly and 2. They have marrow in their bones like humans!
In the photo above, note that Kiwis are not that gigantic!
Holy Sheep!!! At the Agrodome I learned about 19 breeds of sheep, sheep dogs and saw a shearer shear a sheep (try saying that three times fast)!! I was even able to bring a bit of that little guy's wool home! What a show! Even Romney showed up! ;)
Smells Like Rotten Eggs!!
The next morning Kelly drove us to a traditional Maori village with geothermal springs...Whakarewarewa! There is a smell of sulphur that rises from the geothermal springs, but it doesn't taint the flavor of the food and it really wasn't that strong.
I saw a traditional meeting house, dancing and listened to traditional Maori singing! The people in this village use the geothermal springs to cook sweet corn and other veggies! They utilize the steam as an oven and cook their meals in the ground!
The best surprise was a natural geyser shooting upwards in the distance! I haven't been to Yellowstone yet, so my first geyser experience was pretty cool!
Water and Relaxation
Next stop on the Kelly/Manali adventure...Huka Falls and Lake Taupo. Huka Falls are the largest falls on the Waikato River...they may not be Vic or Niagara, but they are still beautiful! Waikato river is one of the longest rivers in New Zealand and drains into Lake Taupo. We decided to refuel and rest while watching the sunset over Lake Taupo...the largest freshwater lake in all of Australasia!
Ruakuri and Waitomo: Caves and Glowworms...(no not the worm-doll you used to have as a kid)!
December 29th, 2010 off and running!! Kelly drives us 2.5 hours to Waitomo to see limestone caves and glow-maggots...I mean glowworms! Initially I thought okay, we are going to see caves...I've seen them before in PA (Laurel Caverns) but I was just totally blown away! First by the entrance at Ruakuri...a spiral ramp that descends ~12 meters! Imagine entering and looking 12 meters down a spiral ramp...not spectacular?? Well imagine this...staring down by daylight and the light is out and it's pitch black, then each level of the ramp is lit with a row of soft rust-coloured lights. Level by level each row is flicked on for dramatic effect! Still not impressed...well you have no imagination and just need to go to NZ and see for yourself! At Rurakuri Caves we see amazing formations of stalagmites and stalactites and glowworms that are literally inches from your face! My photos don't do these caves justice, so please follow the link above. The guide that took us on the tour was one of the people who helped reconstruct the entrance and footpaths in 2004, so tourists no longer entered upon a sacred Maori burial area.
The paths are concrete floors and metal bridges that are suspended with cables secured into the walls of the cave?? Unbelievable! And then comes the sights of the formations of stalactites, stalagmites and cave coral! Throughout the tour only a section of the path is lit at one time and is on a timer (this is to conserve energy and preserve the cave). So at one point the tour guide says, it's going to be pitch black for a few meters. Just place your right hand on the railing and follow. Uhhhhh....okay...so I let the darkness pull me in and held on tight to that railing and followed it to the end...although at times my feet did not want to move. What a dramatic prelude to formations! We were able to see glowworms up close & personal but the true beauty of them can only be seen by boat in the Waitomo Caves.
Waitomo Caves weren't the same after a tour by a guide who actually helped build the paths into the Ruakuri Cave. Waitomo's best feature was floating silently on a boat in the pitch black with the ceilings of the caves lit up by millions and millions of glowworms!! It looked like a night sky filled only with blue stars!! Just beautiful, absolutely beautiful!! Oh so pretty...and shiny!!
Arriving to New Zealand!!
Wow! What can I say!! I guess in the words of the Terminator..."I'll be back!" A country of two major islands both so beautiful and uniquely different. North island...sooo many things to see. South island...sooo many things to do. So here's a glimpse of my trip!
To New Zealand: OAK-->LAX-->MEL-->CHC-->AKL.
Departed on December 26, 2010 at 1600.
Arrived on December 28, 2010 at 2130.
Greeted by my photo-trigger happy friend Kelly!!! (The best part of arriving to New Zealand)!!
First "tour" Auckland at night! Night sky lit up by the Sky Tower and the Harbour Bridge and who can forget TV NZ!!
What a surprise...in Frankfurt??
The night before my trip home I packed all night and barely slept. My mind became a big mess and I ended up missing my flight. So I took the next flight out of London and it put me in Frankfurt. Yes another city I can check of my list of places I've been, but an unexpected surprise with an even better ending. I didn't have a Lonely Planet to guide me through Frankfurt...I only had my intuition. I used my intuition to initiate a conversation with another backpacker. And to my surprise I not only met a backpacker, but a gourmet backpacker, Oz! Oz is a chef and not your average food network channel chef, but really an Iron Chef! We became fast friends with our common interests of photography and food and of course the love of a new adventure. Oz was planning on meeting a friend in downtown and as luck would have it I became friends with her (Meltem) so quickly that she offered me a place to stay that evening. The three of us and another backpacker made a feast that would excite all of your senses. Chef Oz and I prepped the food as Meltem and her friend made outdoor arrangements to enjoy our feast. We made sausages (well what else would I want in Germany???), potato salad with a dressing that I cannot recreate, bread and of course beer! This meal left our bellies full our mouth satisfied and hunger satiated! The evening came to end with hugs to the boys and a conversation about friendships between Meltem and I. The next morning I woke for my flight and was saddened to leave my new friend in a new city that I barely discovered. All I know is I left Frankfurt knowing I'll always have a friend there. Thanks Meltem for your hospitality, YOU ARE FABULOUS!!
A New City, A New Love Called London!
London, my love, oh how I miss you dearly! I miss your castles, your towers, your bridges and especially your pub crawls ;) London, you captured my heart and held my mouth agape as I gawked at your sights. I enjoyed watching you from double-decker buses, from "your eye" and from in between gates. Gates to palaces and gates to cathedrals. Oh how I wish I could lay in the grass again at Westminster Abbey, ride the tube to Charring Cross and sip a latte in Trafalgar Square, better yet have a lovely Pimm's with a good friend and eat your once national food of fish and chips! You were so kind as to entice me with your delicious foods from Borough market, dazzle my taste buds at Roast and grace me with company so pleasant that I did not wish to leave. I loved taking your picture as the sun shone down on your sculptures in Buckingham Palace and of your guardsmen during beating the retreat. You gave me a special surprise that day with a little wave from your Queen! Oh my heart filled with joy and my eyes widened on that unbelievable moment.
I enjoyed watching your theatrics at the Old Vic, the Criterion Theatre and especially at the Open Air Theatre in Regent's Park. Although that day was the day you chose to show me how cold, literally, you could be by drizzling droplets of water on my head all performance long. I tell you London, I still had a fantastic time watching Shakespeare!! My most favourite part of my visit with you was your kindness to reunite me with my travel mates, Sat, Jamie, Hayley, Mannie and Livie! Without them I would not have understood your kindness to welcome so many to your home. And what will I give you London? One day I hope to give you my presence again, whether it be for a vist to walk like a Beatle or to reside with you permanently and fall in love all over again! I thank you, my dear sweet London, I thank you. I think of you often longing for a reunion...one day, my fair city...one day.
Israel with Friends
I had a wonderful experience in Israel! I was fortunate enough to make friends with a very cute Israeli couple while we were traveling in South Africa. This lovely couple gave me a lift from Blyde River Canyon back to Johannesburg and we've been friends ever since. So when they asked me to come and visit them in Israel I took them up on their offer! I was greeted at the airport by Katty (no longer pregnant), Shay (husband), Linoy (first daughter) and the new addition, April! A cute family of four to greet me with open arms!
Katty and her family took me to the boardwalk area where we saw Capoeira dancing, children running and laughing about, people enjoying the sunset over the sea while munching on food and sipping on drinks. We even strolled by a little local market! It was a great first night in Israel.
While there I ventured off to Jerusalem on my own and was astounded by the Wailing or Western Wall! The sight was humbling. The wall is sectioned off for men and women, but like a neighbors curiosity one can climb up on a chair and easily peek over the fence to see what's going on. On the men's side barmitzvahs were abundant! Young boys carrying the Torah while their male counterparts singing and rejoicing in the tradition of celebrating a boy's coming of age. Such joyous celebrations in the back grounds contrasted so starkly in the foregrounds near the wall with those individuals crying and sobbing while pressed against the wailing wall. That was another humbling moment for me. Every crack/crevice of the wall was jammed with small slips of paper with people's prayers on them. I joined the masses and began to write my prayer, folded it, gave it a kiss and with all my might shoved it into an open crevice. Feeling overwhelmed, I stepped back, admired my little slip of paper, gazed around at so many women coming together for one purpose and just sighed. So wonderful!
I walked around Jerusalem along the via Dolorosa where its believed that Jesus took his last steps. On this path there are plaques that indicate what happened to Jesus at certain points along the path. Unfortunately now most of these alley ways are covered in souvenir stalls. I did enjoy what was unobstructed. One of the best pieces of architecture there was the Dome of the Rock mosque. It took me ages to find the only entrance that permits non-Muslims to enter through. For a religion that highly promotes tolerance I didn't really appreciate this "discrimination". All the entrances/exits lead to the mosque and if you are non-Muslim then you are only granted access via one entrance, but you are permitted to leave out of any entrance/exit. The air of religious tension is obvious...unfortunate and obvious.
After seeing all I could in the heart of Jerusalem I scurried off to the Israel Museum where I laid my eyes upon 2000 year old documents...The Dead Sea Scrolls. I just couldn't believe that on my trip how much I've been amazed by and I continue to be in awe at everything I am fortunate enough to see! Most of the documents there were written in Hebrew and look amazingly good for surviving 2000 years. Incredible!!
The best part of this adventure was having the opportunity to see it from a locals perspective and enjoying a local lifestyle. Thank you Katty, Shay, Linoy and April for a wonderful time and I hope to one day return for another visit!
From Egypt to Jordan in 20 days!
On my flight from Jo'burg to Cairo I met an Egyptian man who took me in like I was his daughter! My dear friend now, Salah! He gave me his number and offered to show me Cairo, so after traveling to the oases I took him up on his offer. Salah drove me around Cairo and showed me where Anwar Sadat was assasinated and now laid to rest. My first trip to the pyramids was courtesy of Salah and it was great! We only had an hour and rushed to see all the pyramids and the scenic viewpoints as well as the sphinx! It was great that I had Salah to tell the tourist police that I just wanted one more picture!!! He was kind enough to take a few pictures of me in front of the great wonders of the world!! Thank you Salah!! We then moved on to his friend Meena's place. She moved to Cairo from Canada about three years ago! A lovely woman who fed us and entertained us with her stories of being cheated in the markets when she first moved to Cairo!! Now she's got a seafood guy she can trust! After a lovely meal, Salah showed me Cairo by night! All lit up in it's colorful beauty! We saw a couple that just got married standing on a bridge getting photos with an amazing backdrop of the Nile and Cairo Tower! Locals standing on statues near the opera house and the riverfront alive with couples and families and falafel vendors! Oh the smell of those tasty falafels!!! YUMMY!!!!!!!!!! So around midnight Salah and I finally said our sad goodbyes but not without him stopping for a tasty treat of peanuts for me!
Next morning I met my tour group of 10 and off we headed to the Egyptian Museum for an information session that blew my mind! This museum is overfilled with mummies, sarcophagi, jewelry, pottery, canopic jars and amazing stone carvings!! The archeology foundation is building another museum near Giza to house it all...but even that won't be enough because every month there is a new discovery! Next stop The Pyramids!! Even cooler the second time around! Listening to the history the discovery and the conservation made this time a different experience! The pyramids are really as amazing "AS SEEN ON TV"!! I even crawled inside one...didn't find any kings just a bunch of other tourists! It was incredibly cool to know on May 11th 2009 I was inside a pyramid!! After climbing out of a pyramid I climbed on it near the No Climbing sign...yes bad tourist I know...sorry! Off to see the Sphinx!!! I gave him a kiss and was in awe at the view! Head like a king and body of a lion with one of the pyramids in the background...look out Nat Geo have I got a picture for you!
After a stinky and scary camel ride our group was off to a perfume shop. Egypt is known for making essences. They've got all the labels but call them by different names like Essence of Nefertiti or 1000 Arabian Nights...I didn't buy any...I'm okay with Eau de Manali (not a word Maulik!) Next we stopped at a papyrus shop and there I did a little damage...thank goodness for Capital One! After a tasty lunch we headed for the train station and set off for Aswan!
In Aswan I saw the Philae Temple, had dinner in a Nubian village and bargained for a few souvenirs and my most favourite sight...Abu Simbel!! At Philae Temple my group and I had a lovely time acting out the story of Set, Osiris, Isis oh and uh...sorry Mannie and Wassim but I've forgotten the other woman's name...it was the heat that melted my brain! A great temple with stunning work and the size is the one thing that always fascinated me the most!! Just incredible!!! Abu Simbel was my favourite because of it's story...this monstrosity of a temple was relocated 65m higher and 200m back from the river after the river was dammed. An incredible feat! Ramses was a bit full of himself at this temple depicting himself so largely and carving his cartouches so deep! But the man was very smart!
Aswan is where the felucca trip began and it was the highlight of my time in Egypt. I know the temples are great, but sailing on the Nile without a motor, just a sail and relaxing and reading and swimming and sitting in the sun and getting browner and browner (sorry mom and dad) and listening to the sound of the water slap up against the boat...just heavenly!! We only spent two nights on there, but I could have spent an entire week! The nights were great as well as we docked along the bank of the Nile had a fire sang and danced and smoked a little shisha (flavored tobacco)! Sigh...those were the days...Our boat docked finally in Kom Ombo and off for more temple sightings!! Edfu Temple was brillant again with it's size and the depth of the carvings into the stone...patience is what these artists and engineers had the most.
Last temple stop...Luxor! It was blazing with heat and humidity here!! Stepping outside caused a puddle of perspiration to quickly pool at my feet!! In Luxor I eyed up the most stunning ring at a silver shop that I've ever seen!! Almond shaped, about an inch and a half long and half an inch wide with markecite and rubys...oh it was beautiful!! But if I wanted to return to the US I would need it to fly me home, so it was left there in the window longing for my finger...sigh. The next two temples were just as amazing as everything I saw from the beginning of this trip. Luxor Temple by night lit up with light orange bulbs against a clear midnight blue sky oh just incredible...when I thought I wouldn't need a tripod and this was the moment I did...oh guess I'll just have to come back one day...hopefully on Nat Geo's expense...a girl can dream can't she!? Final Temple...Karnak Temple which one day will be connected to Luxor Temple by a stone path 5km long lined on both sides with sphinxes (or is it sphinxi???). This temple is known for people walking around a statue of a scarab for good luck. So I circled it 10 times!! A scarab is a beetle...like the ones in the movie The Mummy, but none came to life!
My last destination in Egypt was Dahab...ahhhh...Dahab, a place of absolute bliss!!! Drinking freshly squeezed juices, eating seafood caught that morning, smoking shisha and listening to the waves of the Red Sea, diving in the Sea and witnessing an amazing reef of corals from colors that only computer imaging could create as well as spotting lion fish, snorkeling in the Blue Hole and feeling like you are in a world all your own (that is until a group of 50 Italians come talking with their hands through the water)...ahh...yes bliss...just heavenly bliss!!
Off to Jordan...although I was excited to see Petra I was sad to leave Egypt behind a place where I fell in love with the people and the culture...a place I will definitely return to in the future! Crossing into Jordan was a trying experience as our group needed to make our way via Eilat, Israel. At the border crossing I was grilled on my birth place, my religion and why I had a Dubai stamp in my passport. I politely answered all questions and was given access to pass through Israel to Jordan. I wasn't the only who was held up with a barrage of questions. My Kiwi friend Hayley was actually stopped and escorted to a security office secondary to having a stamp from Morrocco in her passport. After about 20 minutes or so she was also given permmission to cross the 20 minutes through Israel to Jordan. First destination...Wadi Rum. We spent the night at a cheesey but entertaining bedouin camp...no unusual suspects here, just good food and and dancing! A desert safari ride into Wadi Rum with quite an entertaining driver! The color of the sand and rock formations were absolutely fabulous! Knowing that we were riding through a desert that once was all under water was quite striking...global warming...sigh.
Second stop...PETRA!!!!!!!!!!!! A city 2000 years old carved out of a mountainside and eroded away by floods and wind to create an amazing landscape is a sight to see. My words or pictures can't even come close to depicting the beauty and size of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. The impressive Siq winding it's way and creating a narrow passageway to bestow upon the doe-eyed tourist a spectacular and quite sizeable building known as the Treasury! Now I saw Petra by night as well and this one mile corridor was lit with small white candles in brown paper bags to lead you in the darkness to the Treasury. The walk is completed in silence as to just to let your other senses take it all in and let you be surprised by the scene at the Treasury. More candles lit, people sitting on Jordanian designed mats all surrounding a sole bedouin man sitting in his white gallibiya, head dressed with a red and white checkered scarf and stabilized with a black ring waiting to dazzle your auditory sensors with music flowing from his oud (a violin like instrument). A magical experience! When I thought the show was over another sound mystified me as I tried to locate it's origin. From inside the Treasury a man was playing the flute and it rang through the area with a sweet melody! Again I can't tell you enough how amazing this sight was and one can only really experience it in all it's glory in person! Seeing only 10% of Petra by day was exhausting but really worth it...the guide on the other hand...not so much. Walking around Petra I wondered how it survived for so many years because when you enter in a tomb/cave and touch the walls the colors of sand just come right off onto your fingertips! It was like a painter's palette! And to think this was only my third day in Jordan...what more could be in store for my eyes!! THE DEAD SEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The second highlight of Jordan! No lifevest needed here...you couldn't swim if you tried...and honestly I didn't try! I was content lying on my back and just floating and enjoying the feeling of absolute weightlessness! The water itself was oily and VERY salty which my eyes had the unfortunate first hand experience of feeling. The sign says just continue to lie on your back and the pain will pass...yeah that didn't happen for me so I felt my way to the shower and relieved my pain and then headed back to the sea for more floating, but not before getting muddy!! Now I'm not sure if the guy who coated me in mud was official or not, but I can tell you he got more than his one dinar's worth! At this point in our trip the seven of us were coated from face to feet with the Dead Sea mud and posed looking like really bad super heros for great photos and even better memories!!! Saying goodbye to the Dead Sea was hard to do but had to be done.
My trip ended in Madaba where I saw the oldest mosaic map containing the Dead Sea, Jerusalem, The Nile, Jericho, Mt Nebo and Gaza! Just incredibly beautiful!! This artist had patience as well. The mosaics are no more than a fingernail big and the colors are amazing!! In Madaba I found a lovely little coffee shop next to the Archealogical Park and enjoyed the loveliest hospitality in Jordan! The shop owner let me use his laptop for two hours while I sipped his refreshing latte and chomped quickly through a homemade chocolatechip cookie!! Later that same evening I enticed the rest of the group to hit up the shop for some lattes! This trip was absolutely fantastic!!! My dearest Egypt, I will be back for you!!!
Traveling in the Oases and a Warning to Women
When I started my travels in Egypt I began my fourth month of travel in Africa!!! The adventure thus far was fantastic and I didn't realize how much better it was going to get until I arrived in Cairo...but I did have an unfortunate encounter that all women traveling in Egypt must be aware of.
I set off for Siwa Oasis for an adventure that I will fortunately and unfortunately never forget! En route to Siwa I met a Canadian girl named Margarita who had just finished traveling with her family and wanted to continue to do some more traveling on her own. So, I invited her to join me for a desert safari adventure. I was referred to a company in Siwa by friends I met on my overland tour earlier this year, so I figured I would be going with a reliable company. Well, unfortunately that wasn't the case...Mag and I and a another female (M) went for a desert safari ride in a jeep into the dunes of the desert. When we arrived to this beautiful lake in the middle of the desert all of us went swimming (including the guide and driver). I am thankful for my inabilities, as most of you know I can't swim very well and that inability proved to be a pro. The new girl that joined our group last minute swam across the lake with the driver not expecting anything but a cool swim in the lake. When she arrived to the other side the driver gestured to her to place lake mud on her skin as it is supposed to be therapeutic, so she put a little on and then he began assisting her and his hands went places they shouldn't have. She immediately turned around pushed him away and swam back. She did not tell us of this incident until we were at our final destination in the middle of the desert and she was returned back to her hotel. While the guide began cooking he told us of this incident between the driver and M and said the driver felt really bad for doing it. I told him that he should not expect to get away with that kind of behavior with Mag or myself. He said that wasn't his intention. So, we chilled out a bit and enjoyed dinner. Siwa, unfortunately while we were there, was having terrible sandstorms, so I asked our guide to set up a tent just in case we encountered another storm. After my third request he finally set up a tent, but was too late to set it up soundly. Mag and I huddled together under a blanket as to protect ourselves from the wicked sand that was blowing at an unbelievable rate. We occasionally peeked through the blanket and noticed sand piling up on our feet and that just increased our fear even more. After about 45 minutes, our guide finally had a "tent" setup it wasn't as it is pictured to tourists seeking a pleasant night in the desert staring at the stars, but shelter it was and we were glad to take it! So after scrambling for our bags and lugging them over to the tent and lighting some candles we calmed down a bit. At this point the driver had been gone about four hours. So I asked the guide if he would phone the driver to come and retrieve us from the desert as we still did not feel safe being out in the middle of a sandstorm in a tent that could possibly collapse down upon us. His phone was dead...lucky for us I had mine and we called for help and were finally taken to a camp with concrete walls and beds. We spent the night there and safely returned to town the next day. That morning Mag and I tried explaining to the guide that his incompetence put our lives at risk and for that reason he should apologize or say something. He was adamant about not apologizing, so we left town immediately. So anyone reading this please take caution that you are responsible for yourself when you are in the desert, always have a back up plan! Mag and I were very fortunate. Don't worry I've spread the word to other travelers and other desert safari companies of this terrible incident!
Oasis Experience #2...Much Better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So after this horrendous experience you would wonder why I would venture to experience another...well this time I went with friends (and one was male)!!! It's unfortunate ladies, but Egypt is definitely not a place for a single foreign woman to be traveling around on her own especially without knowing the language. So in Bahareya I traveled with Pedro and Almuenda!!! A lovely pair who helped me better my spanish!!! In Bahareya I had a great time eating camel meat, smoking shisha and experiencing the intensity of the White Desert and the Black Desert!! It was absolutely fantastic!!! My guide was great! The pictures will tell the story!!
A South African Experience Local Style!
This local South African experience began with an email from my family member to her friend in SA, Nadia! From that point on every one of my experiences I seemed destined for. From cancelling plans to depart SA early to crazy bus rides to Nelspruit…everything happened for a reason. I began my journey in Pretoria; with Nadia as my “tour guide, driver and hostess” I enjoyed Pretoria like a local! We started our first adventure in Johannesburg at Constitution Hill. Two prisons here (male and female) held great political activists such as Winnie Mandela and Mohandas Gandhi. We saw their “living” environments and listened as the guide told us their stories of their struggle for freedom. It’s unbelievable to know how horribly they were treated; abused and humiliated. By the end of our two hour tour we were emotionally exhausted. Afterwards Nadia and I received respite from her cousin Reyhana. Reyhana made Nadia and myself a delicious Indian meal that I gobbled up in seconds! We then went out to Fordsburg market or as I like to call it very little India. It’s exactly the same, the smell of coriander, garam masala, deep fried samosas, fresh veggies and of course the infamous body odor…I loved it!! Bootleg CDs and DVDs everywhere, bargaining down to one-tenth of the original price, waiting patiently as some guy goes somewhere to dig out this movie you’ve been searching months and months for, it was FANTASTIC! A wonderful beginning to my journey! Thank you Reyhana for your hospitality!
Nelspruit and Blyde River Canyon
Bussing from Pretoria to Nelspruit I met Mbongwa, a very interesting gentleman to converse with regarding South Africa’s present political situation. (We met before the elections took place.) Out of the kindness of his heart he and his mom and aunty drove me from the bus station to my backpacker’s lodge. Unbelievable generosity! Another reason I believe in karma. At my lodge I met an American couple who were absolutely lovely to talk with. The three of us went on the Blyde River Canyon tour and witnessed the clouds close and open up over the world’s largest green canyon. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, the air so fresh and crisp and the tranquility felt while looking at The Three Rondavels...(sigh)! Checking out many amazing views on the way such as Lisbon Falls, Wonderview and the Pinnacle we eventually came to Bourke’s Luck Potholes. Now many of my fellow Pennsylvanian’s are all too familiar with potholes, but these were like none you’ve ever seen and frankly none that you’d ever become infuriated about. I’m talking about potholes created by water and wind erosion that create the most interesting shapes and curves. Most potholes filled with swirling water and others being flushed by a waterfall! Incredibly beautiful! One of my most favorite places on this trip!
Nelspruit to Jo’burg
My good fortune reappears as I am offered a lift by an Israeli couple back to Johannesburg. Katy a lovely woman pregnant with her second baby wanted to come to explore South Africa with her funny husband, Shay! The three of us had a great time at the casino in Nelspruit…well I should say they had a great time as they came back with more money than was spent and myself on the other hand did not…guess my good fortune wasn’t making an appearance that night. We made it safely back to Jo’burg and I said goodbye as they headed back to Israel, but not without an invite first to visit them!
Durban
I arrived to Durban on Good Friday, where my friend Nadia came to fetch me from the bus station. She unfortunately had to be in Durban because her father fell ill earlier in the week. No worries though he is feeling much better now. Despite having to care for her father, Nadia insisted that I stay at his house as long as I needed to while exploring Durban. While in Durban, which by the way has the largest Indian population in South Africa, Nadia and I visited the botanic gardens and the KZN Society for the Arts and best of all the local Essenwood market! This little market comes alive every Saturday with crafts, food, music and children playing. I bought a few souvenirs for friends and a dress for myself!
My next Durban experience wasn’t so pleasant…The Beach! No I’m not talking about the creepy movie with Leo Dicaprio, but Durban’s safe-if-you-are-in-a-group-beach. As I walked along the beachfront looking for a place to sunbathe (don’t laugh) I spot a place next a white female. I kindly ask her if it’s okay to plop myself next to her and she says no problem. We begin chatting and I find out she’s an American student studying in Durban. After about an hour of reading on the beach she departs and I’m left to fend for myself. Now the beach wasn’t by any means empty…it was Easter weekend and everyone was there to relax and enjoy. Well, unfortunately I never felt completely comfortable because of the overhead announcements: “ATTENTION, ATTENTION TO ALL PUBLIC! PLEASE TAKE CARE OF YOUR BELONGINGS! THERE ARE PEOPLE ON THE BEACH NOT HERE TO ENJOY, BUT TO STEAL YOUR BAGS! TAKE CARE OF YOUR BAGS THERE ARE THIEVES ON THE BEACH!” Relaxation not in sight for miles, so I finished my book and left…but hey you should see my tan it’s great!
After dealing with Durban’s poor transportation system I caved and rented a car. So off to see The Valley of 1000 Hills, scuba-diving in the Aliwal Shoal along the South Coast to see two sea turtles, two rays, two eels and some of the craziest looking fish, then to meet a friend of Nadia’s, Leanne and her family. Leanne and her family graciously invited me to attend a rugby match with them and offered me a place to bunk for the night! Good fortune #???? Leanne is a kind and generous and loving individual. Thanks for schooling me on the rules of rugby! Oh and my most favorite …the Flasher Girls!! I look forward to cheering on the Sharks!!
After saying farewell to Leanne I was off to the Gandhi Salt March…my most humbling experience in Africa by any measure! The crowd was ridiculous, people of all ages, races and religions coming together in celebration of Mahatma Gandhi’s struggle for freedom! The young and the elderly dressed in dhotis, carrying walking sticks and wearing sandals just like Gandhiji with the goal of walking 22km! I was overwhelmed with emotion and quickly wiped away my tears as I walked around his home and viewed his pictures and read on his great accomplishments. A true awakening for me. After the welcome speech was made the marchers hit the pavement, some carrying the flag of India and all wearing the Gandhi Salt March 2009 t-shirt. We were a swarm of white t-shirts crowding sidewalks and roadways while motorists honked in support and minibus taxi drivers offered to give us a lift to the end point. We passed by some of the poorest sections of Durban…talk about being humbled…unbelievable. At the end, a few speeches were made and Ela Gandhi closed the ceremony by thanking everyone who participated in the march and honored her grandfather, as she wiped tears from her eyes. For me this was a privilege and an honor to be a part of and I look forward to continuing to educate others on the importance of unity and peace through non-violence.
Narissa & Family…my next wonderful Durban experience!! So Narissa is a friend of Nadia’s who I had the lucky fortune to meet in Pretoria one evening for dinner. We hit it off…mostly because we are both Tauruses! She welcomed me into her home and introduced me to her mother, husband, sister, brother-in-law and her two nephews, as well as her daughter via the phone and oh how could I forget about Serj and Garfield, her cats! Such wonderful people who gave me shelter, food and most of all a family away from family! I learned a lot from Narissa as well, I learned about South Africa’s political history and how she worked elbow to elbow with Nelson Mandela. Narissa turned a beautiful 50 this year and accomplished one of her greatest achievements…earning her PhD…without compromise! She’s been an inspiration to her daughter and is an inspiration to me. The most profound comment she made was, “Most people say I don’t want to live beyond the age of 70, but I say I want to live beyond 70 because 70 years isn’t long enough to achieve everything in life I want to achieve!” Since she’s said that to me I now want to live as long as I can to achieve as much as I can. Meeting Narissa and her family I learned that one can really have it all family, career and most importantly happiness!
My last paragraph is for Nadia. A woman without whom I wouldn’t have been able to see and do everything that I’ve done in the last month. A woman who's shaken hands with Arch Bishop Desmond Tutu and who keeps the autograph of the Dalai Lama. A woman who has been inspired by her father to read and by herself to pursue her goals and I figure by her mother to be so caring and giving. Her generosity is kindest of all. Thank you Nadia for opening up your home, your family’s home and your heart to me! Your kindness is appreciated beyond any simple Thank you!
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